Great Foundation: a short lesson
The key to a successful career in makeup is SKIN. Managing texture, color, luminosity and radiance is one of the most difficult things to learn.
It is so hard to learn because it’s often a case of forgetting what you know and relying only on what you see. It usually takes my assistants a good year to master the art of basic skin makeup. First you need to forget the idea of covering the complexion as if it were a brick wall that needs to be plastered and painted. That will make any makeup that follows look heavy, old looking and “drag-queenie”.
On the other hand, if the complexion is left natural looking, the rest of the makeup can be absolutely outrageously strong and crazy and still look beautiful. So, you need to leave the texture of the skin shine through.
Discard any thick, pasty and opaque foundation and throw them out the window. Stick with liquid, creme textures.
Next, match the color to the area just below the collarbone. Yes, that’s right! The face, the jaw and the inside of your arms aren’t the same color as the rest of you 99% of the time. Most of the time the right match is one or two tones lighter or darker than the face. At times the difference can be even more dramatic, like in the summertime when the face is quite a bit lighter due to increased use of sunscreen. Anyhow, apply a little stripe of color and if it’s right, it should blend in seamlessly.
My preferred method of application is with a damp sponge (Beauty Blender) because it gives me a very light coverage. If the skin barely needs any help, a drop of Rodin Olio Lusso mixed with the foundation will make it even more subtle. If there are a few blemishes and spots, I will cover them individually with a brush and heavy-duty concealer or even tattoo-cover after the foundation application. If the skin requires more overall coverage I will opt for a richer creme-type foundation mixed with oil so it doesn’t look too opaque. From there I will just layer it until I get the result I’m looking for.
My preferred products for skin? Armani Luminous Foundation is probably my favorite but the shades are so important I will go to any brand if they have the right combination of tone and texture. In my kit there is also Clinique Super Balanced Makeup (great range of colors) and Nars. There are plenty of products out there that could be great but they’re actually not for reasons of color, texture and sometimes ingredients.